Udisco Skyward 120

[MidnightHeli]

Was very happy when I won this plane but never realized the size of it untill I removed the wings from the box :D 9 feet wingspan :eek:.

Looked on the web and found no info for it ?????? and found no plans in case I crash and need to rebuild. Any ideas?

Also no suggestion of servo size, tork etc. Any suggestions? need 1 for throttle, 1 for rudder, 2 for ailerons and 2 for elevator.

When they say engine size 90-108 cu. in or 15-18 c.c. (2 cycle) and 120 cu. in or 20 c.c. (4 cycle). I assume 2 cycle is nitro, but is 4 cycle also nitro or is it gaz?

This is not a complicated build since ARF, but I would like to make sure I have the proper component and electronic on it.:hmm:

[Kevin Rochon]

André a gas 20cc would be much more economical if it fits, (you might have to cut the front sides?) than a glow 1.20, but you could go electric with a 4S up to 6S lipo setup as for the servos it's just a trainer so no need for heavy duty servos you can put reg Hitec 311 servos on the ailerons (throttle) maybe a bit stronger on the tail let say Hitec 645.

Don't worry about repair it's a straight forward plane the fuse is a box and the wings have the same ribs all over.

Good luck with it and don't forget to post your progress.

[mitea_dan]

No electric, never, ever. Gas its better.

[Burning Head]

Gas on this one with a good kill switch:cool:

[Sempai-mj]

Dle 20cc will do

[Xavier]

I tought of another advantage of electric today when looking at a 70 years old freind starting is DLE. He had to knee down to start it and then stand up. That was the tought part of the starting procedure. I was thinking that an electric plane doesn't required that much effort to start. Just my 2 cent.

[Sempai-mj]

Very good 2 cents, but if your engine is tuned correctly it will start with a couple of flips at first start, then should start with one flip afterwards.

[Kevin Rochon]

I've seen many having problems starting their engines at the funfly....well for me I just flip a switch...no kneeling;)

[MidnightHeli]

I tought of another advantage of electric today when looking at a 70 years old freind starting is DLE. He had to knee down to start it and then stand up. That was the tought part of the starting procedure. I was thinking that an electric plane doesn't required that much effort to start. Just my 2 cent.

Thanks, but at my age I need all the exercise I can get.:p

[mitea_dan]

That is the spirit: no electric, no pants no cowl. Never, ever.

[MidnightHeli]

Dle 20cc will do

Since I am lousy at name, but the multi TED certificate winner, strongly suggested I install a 30cc gaz engine?
Any comments.
Here are the pics of this ARF kit.

[mitea_dan]

108", 2 743mm, je pense qu'un DLE 30 fait le job...mon opinion.

[Kevin Rochon]

I'd stick with 20cc but the easiest is electric something like this:

http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=GPMG4770

with 6S Lipo 4000 to 5000 MAH

http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=CCR010010000

100 amp ESC you don't need a BEC since you can use low power servos.

Of course you can get all this much cheaper at Hobby King, these are just guidelines.

[Burning Head]

Some EP conversion work few others...

[mitea_dan]

Gas, no electric.

[MidnightHeli]

I'd stick with 20cc but the easiest is electric something like this:

http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=GPMG4770

with 6S Lipo 4000 to 5000 MAH

http://www.greathobbies.com/productinfo/?prod_id=CCR010010000

100 amp ESC you don't need a BEC since you can use low power servos.

Of course you can get all this much cheaper at Hobby King, these are just guidelines.

I will take any guidelines any info, so guys keep it coming with your opinions, the whys and why nots.

Kevin you say that you would stick to 20 cc vs 30 cc. Could you elaborate, why or why not. Thanks

Unless some of you can come up with a good argument for electric (beside, it is cleaner or fly and go) My experience with my Blade 400 helicopter (before I crash and no time to fix) is, practicing hover in the school yard a 1h00 am with 3 batteries, that gave me about 3 10 minutes flight and left hungry for more. When I will go to the club to fly I would need to put 10+ flight for the day:D. And since we got no way of charging at the club and buying 10 6s batteries or 3 with a generator is a bit out of my budget for now.
My thinking may be skewed about this, so I am hopping on all of you and your experience to help me make a decision that I will be happy with.

[dhamultun]

I would go gas and a big tank. Non-stop flying, best way to learn. No waiting for batteries to charge. Kevin is right, 20cc makes sense. 30cc probably over kill...check the prop recommended prop sizes and be sure you'll have clearance! Otherwise you'll be changing lots of props!


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[MidnightHeli]

I would go gas and a big tank. Non-stop flying, best way to learn. No waiting for batteries to charge. Kevin is right, 20cc makes sense. 30cc probably over kill...check the prop recommended prop sizes and be sure you'll have clearance! Otherwise you'll be changing lots of props!


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Since I do not plan to make any changes at the beginning (not enough experience), I just realised that I am stuck to buy a motor that sits on the rails and not attached to the back, the space between the rails is 2 inches and I do not see any 30 cc gaz that can be installed on rails.
The tank that comes with it is 420 cc. What would be the expected flying time?

[dhamultun]

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__51472__NGH_GT25_25cc_Gas_Engine_With_Rcexl_CDI_I gnition_2_7HP_.html


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[dhamultun]

This one is probably enough...http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__51471__NGH_GT17_17cc_Gas_Engine_With_Rcexl_CDI_I gnition_1_8HP_.html


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[dhamultun]

Since I do not plan to make any changes at the beginning (not enough experience), I just realised that I am stuck to buy a motor that sits on the rails and not attached to the back, the space between the rails is 2 inches and I do not see any 30 cc gaz that can be installed on rails.

The tank that comes with it is 420 cc. What would be the expected flying time?


The tank size is plenty, but was most likely for glow fuel. You may need to get another tank or just a gas stopper. http://shop.dubro.com/p/gas-conversion-stopper-qty-pkg-1


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[Kevin Rochon]

420 cc is a little over 14oz so with a 17cc engine that's a long flight 20-30 minutes I guess but at lets say 1/2 speed average.

[MidnightHeli]

WOW. More I look into it more I am going crazy. So many different models and contradicting info on the web.
So. I will be going gas, but what do you all think, DLE vs OS vs Evolution ?????
For now I am pulling toward the evolution gas motor just because they look nicer :p
I know that I will need to change the tubing because it is silicone and gas will degrade it, but the tank and or the stopper? Stopper looks like rubber. Here are the pics of the tank and stopper.

[Sempai-mj]

Get a 20cc DLE very reliable, also get fuel tubing for gas and a gas stopper.
Don't buy the dubro good for glow ang gas as it breaks down and leaks after a couple of weeks, it happened to me. Get the red colored stopper. Also make a loop with the vent tube over the top of the tank before exiting to bottom of the plane.l

[briankizner]

good advice. My DLE 55 has been flawless for four years so far

[mitea_dan]

STP, est-ce que tu as un link avec le rouge?

[Kevin Rochon]

André I would change that gas tank for a Dubro, that screw on top will never seal properly(I wouldn't trust it) and of course a gas stopper they are more red in color.

For the engine I saw Luc T. who has the NGH 25 it seem to work just fine and either that one or the 17cc would fit exactly on your rails and you can get it at AMR it's in stock, with the dollar the way it is it's about the same as getting it from HK.

http://www.amr-rc.com/products-brand/engines-accessories/gas-engines-electric-motors/ngh/

[mitea_dan]

Un tank intéressant:
http://www.sdshobby.com/rc-airplane-accessories/260ml-transparent-fuel-tank-for-15-20cc-gasoline-nitro-airplanes.html
http://www.pro-rc.ca/aeroplus-ideal-fuel-tank/

[MidnightHeli]

STP, est-ce que tu as un link avec le rouge?

http://shop.dubro.com/p/gas-conversion-stopper-qty-pkg-1

[mitea_dan]

Merci beaucoup. Je savais de lui...il est marron...

[Kevin Rochon]

That's the one André.

Now you just have to make up your mind;)

Start building anyway, the engine is around the end of the build.

[MidnightHeli]

Been racking my head with the build. For an ARF the instructions are poor and some pieces do not fit.
Front and rear window are not exactly as in the book, and if I cut them out as in the book, I realized the side of the window will have nothing to hold to, and if I cut larger, it means that I will need to CA the sides from outside, so the esthetic will look bad.
The horn does not fit on the front wheel. either I sand the shaft or the brass in the horn. Sanding the shaft is logical, but it will remove the chrome plating and rust will create and if sending the brass in the horn mean repeating the process if it breaks. I assume I will need to file the inside of the horn, but still thinking. :confused::confused::confused:

[Kevin Rochon]

Hey this is from the Laboratory it should be perfect:rolleyes:

By the horn do you mean the wheel collar? If so just drill it out the same size as the shaft or get the proper ones?

Pictures would help us to help you:cool:

BTW no CA on windows use canopy glue, won't mare the window and dries clear; maybe the windows are not supposed to be cut? Again pictures.

[Sempai-mj]

ARF Manuals = Almost Ready to Figure out. :D

[MidnightHeli]

Hey this is from the Laboratory it should be perfect:rolleyes:

By the horn do you mean the wheel collar? If so just drill it out the same size as the shaft or get the proper ones?

Pictures would help us to help you:cool:

BTW no CA on windows use canopy glue, won't mare the window and dries clear; maybe the windows are not supposed to be cut? Again pictures.

The inside of the horn is 10.00 mm, the wheel shaft on top is 10.18 mm and going down it is 10.10 mm. The first 5.5 mm from the top is like a mushroom.
As far as the windows, the front and rear came in as one piece, forming a bucket and was holding all the small parts. I started cutting them down to fit but not finished. The problem is that the top and bottom (where glue should go) is rounded off. So from the left over pieces, I need to test and see if I can flatten the edges with heat (like in the manual). Hard to see, but if you look at the side (shows a bit if you look at the back of the pic) is a lip (where I assume they wanted me to cut) fit exactly on the frame, so I cut about 5 mm further then the lip. The rear window is almost done except the flattening part.

[Kevin Rochon]

For the wheel just drill out the horn as for the windows looks ok? just put canopy glue all around and use tape to hold until dry and so it doesn't leak out the edges.

Hope it helps?

[MidnightHeli]

hahahahahahaha, this is the nervous laugh of a guy who likes nice stuff but.....
Was looking at different motors including all the above suggestions and found a nice OS motor that fits in the space of a 20 and thinking "hey I want the OS GF30, looks good, nice realistic sound and plenty of power"
http://www.osengines.com/engines-airplane/osmg0798/index.html
Until I saw the Great Hobby price 929.99$ :eek::eek::eek: more then double all the other motors. Even the OS GT22 goes for 532.99$, 200$ more then the DLE20.
Still researching the NGH motors, did not find much for or against it or customer service :confused:. So beside maybe an NGH, my list is down to the DLE20 329.99$, DLE20RA 376.99$, Evolution 20GX2 369.99$, will need to look more at the specs of each.

QUESTION is it worth paying extra and buying the DLE20RA that has a rear muffler instead of the side ?????

[mitea_dan]

http://www.wimac.ca/forum/showpost.php?p=46227&postcount=15