Quique Somenzini Python 100c Build

[Dwight Macdonald]

Here is my winter project ... my excuse is that I also crashed my IMAC plane ...http://www.somenzini.com/images/aircraft/python/DSCF1415.JPG
http://www.somenzini.com/images/aircraft/python/DSCF1417.JPG
http://www.somenzini.com/html/aircraft/python.html

[xed]

Come on Dwight, spring is coming soon... Are you sure you can fit this in your Minivan? Is he really that short cause that plane looks huge.

[Dwight Macdonald]

I think it will actually fit in my minivan with the wings removed on only one side ... hope I'm right! My building area is almost ready (half of my garage) ... hope to start building soon ...

[bob forest]

Dwight, it looks like a beautiful plane, I read great things about it. Just make sure your knife edge has the right rudder deflection..
That is a lot of plane. Should be outstanding to watch you fly it.
Looking forward to seeing it in the air.

[pauldaigle]

Great looking plane, really BIG!
Big! maybe too BIG?
How BIG? Maybe not too BIG?
Can you make it bigger?
The bigger the better?
I have seen bigger! :D :)

[beto9]

Doug, to settle the question once for all if Quique Somenzini is short or not...
can you publish the specs of that beautiful plane?
Hope you are going to add smoke to it!

[Eric Marchand]

Wing Span 85 inches
Length 90 inches
Wing Area 2,340 sq. in.
Weight (RTF) 26.5-27.5 lbs
RecommendedEngine 100-110cc

It's a 44% scale, Just followed the link...I also did a little trig based on the picture, and I calculate that Quique Somenzi is 4' 10"... So Quique is 82.85% scale from an average height Pilot.

[Dwight Macdonald]

The 44% on the link is for the 200cc version.

This one compares with the standard and high performance versions of the full scale Pitts 12 as follows:

Standard: length 36.6%, span 30.8%, average 33.7%
High performance: length 38.1%, span 32.2%, average 35.1%

Overall average: 34.4%

So what shall I call it 34% or 35%?

Generally 100cc are about 35%

I think Alix's ultimate had a span of 80" and was called "35%"

[stephane.savard]

Are you gonna give some rides to Taffy in there? :)

[beto9]

Only if he buys her some goggles... and cookies, of course!

[stephane.savard]

http://www.pilotmart.net/cat_images/Q270.jpg

[Dwight Macdonald]

Greg,
Which SmartFly power expander and switches do you plan to use? There are a few models. I'm trying to decide what to put in the Python. So far, I'm thinking of two A123 2300mAh for the receiver(s) (I may use two) and a 3300 mAh NiMH for the ignition.

[xed]

Greg,
Which SmartFly power expander and switches do you plan to use? There are a few models. I'm trying to decide what to put in the Python. So far, I'm thinking of two A123 2300mAh for the receiver(s) (I may use two) and a 3300 mAh NiMH for the ignition.

Hi Dwight, I would go with the PowerExpander Pro (http://www.smart-fly.com/Products/Expander/expander.htm), just add a failsafe (to ON) Pin & flag switch (with 2 charge jacks that attach to the A123 JR charge leads) and you are set to go. Since you are using A123s, you do not need the SuperReg or TurboRegs.

It takes Dean's as inputs so you will not have any bottleneck between the battery and servos, aside from the 3A-6A you can squeeze out of those standard servo wires.

The PowerExpander Pro can be used with any size aircraft. It can be used with 5-cell NiCd/NiMH or 2-cell A123 battery packs directly (it has “Smart-Sense inputs which will disable a bad battery pack) or can be used with our SuperReg or TurboReg when using lithium batteries. When used with NiCd/NiMH battery packs it supports an optional failsafe switch. For detailed information please see the user manual links above the picture.

[comparf]

Dwight I agree with greg. This is what I put in my QQ Python 100

DA 100 with flex headers and MTW 75 -2 1/4" cannisters.
Smart fly power expander sport
Smart fly super regulator
Smart fly failsafe switch ( Pin and flag)
Smart fly optical ignition cutoff
1 Fromeco 2600 mah L-Ion battery for the ignition with a fromeco regulator
2 Fromeco 2600 mah L-Ion batteries for the receiver ( ea. battery weighs only 3.3 oz.)
2 Hitec 5955TG Digital servos for the Rudder
2 Hitec 5955TG Digital servos for the elevators
4 Hitec 5955TG Digital servos for the ailerons
1 Hitec 5625MG Digital servo for the throttle
32 oz. tank for fuel
4 1/2" carbon fibre spinner
27-10 Pt carbon fibre propeller
4 1/2" Du-Bro lite wheels
Du-Bro HD control horns
Futaba 9CAP transmitter

[Dwight Macdonald]

Thanks for listing your equipment Paul. How is your Python build going?

[Dwight Macdonald]

How does the failsafe switch work? It seems risky to me to use only one switch.

[xed]

How does the failsafe switch work? It seems risky to me to use only one switch.

Failsafe is to "power" the Power Expander, rather than shutdown so theres no risk with having only one switch. It is just a "state" switch, instructing the Power Expander to toggle the power on and off and by default it reverts to the "ON" position. The batteries are not connected inline with the switch at all.

Of course the board itself could malfunction somehow I suppose but I've never heard of that happening with any of the Smart-Fly stuff, its built quite well... You can always call them and ask them any questions, they are like DA with respect to quality support.

[comparf]

Hi Dwight
The Python is finished. I will be very interested to see the final weight. I am working on the graphics ,they are almost finished. I only have the real hard one left to do "The snake". I am not exactly sure how I am going to do it. I did not use any of the original graphics the quality was not great. If you are not careful the colours will delaminate.

I am using Smart fly systems with the single switch on both my planes (python 100 and 42% extra). I am not worried at all. Smart fly has a god reputation and I cannot find 1 thread complaining about quality or problems. The single switch will turn on everything 2 reciever batteries and the optical ignition throught the Smart fly optical ignition cut off. the swich can only fail in the on position so no risk and by having everthing on 1 switch. I will never have to wonder if it won't start due to electric power or I won't wonder if I have shut everthing off. As with all of these systems there is always a very slight battery drain in the off position. so if you don't plan to fly for a week, you must unplug the batteries. By far the best solution for the price compared to Powerbox ( Istill have a powerbox system in my 35% extra.

Hi Greg
Do you use an optical ignition cut off in your planes?

[xed]

Hi Greg
Do you use an optical ignition cut off in your planes?Yep, I think it should be mandatory in every plane.

[comparf]

Dwight

I drew the snake today. I am quite pleased. here are some photos. I can make them any size any colour.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Thanks for all the info guys! Your graphic looks great Paul! Does the optical ignition cutoff need it's own channel on the receiver?

[xed]

Dwight, the optical cutoff is on its own channel, yes. It will prevent you from starting the plane without the receiver on (no signal) and cut the engine if the receiver is out of range of the transmitter or loses contact with the transmitter. And you can bind the cutoff to an on/off switch on your radio to kill the ignition. The smart-fly comes with a little LED light which you can poke through the side of the fuselage to know when there is voltage going to your ignition box.

[xed]

Hi Dwight,

My equipment arrived this week, refer to attachments. Total weight for 2x2300mA batteries (A123), expander and switch wiring = 15.0oz. My concern in this plane is how close the batteries are to the rudder servo. It doesn't rub but I'm not sure how that translates after the engine is running.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Paul, you mentioned one time that there is a guide somewhere for choosing the correct header length for tuned pipes. Can you let me know where to find it? I'm in the process of fitting my pipes and want to allow for adjustments if necessary.

[JMAR]

Hi Dwight

These might help

www.mh-aerotools.de/airfoils/javapipe_en.htm
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Galaxy/4707/speed/mar67man_pipe.htm

As For Ignition cut off, I have used this one on all my gas planes.

http://electrodynam.com/rc/EDR-107/index.shtml


For the power box, I use this one.

http://www.desertaircraft.com/page.php?Page=EmcotecDPSI


John

[Dwight Macdonald]

Thanks for all the info John! The ignition cut off is less expensive than others I have seen ... sounds good. I wonder if one is available that would prevent starting the engine on high throttle?!

[Dwight Macdonald]

I finally have finished sorting my garage and setting up my work benches ... after changing houses a couple of years ago ... and the building has begun ... just a few pics from the box to the current state ...

[Dwight Macdonald]

The instructions do not call for sealing the hinge lines ... I attempted to do it anyway on the bottom of the elevator using clear Super Monokote. It looks Ok but not perfect ... it doesn't stay stuck well near some of the hinges when I move the surfaces to full deflection ... perhaps I didn't remove the vaseline well enough from the hinges (I used isoproyl alcohol several times). Does anyone know if sealing the hinge lines will make any difference on a plane this size? The gap is about 1mm when the hinges are neutral and closes completely at full deflection (45 degrees).

[xed]

Dwight, you might find this RC Canada thread (http://www.rccanada.ca/rccforum/showthread.php?t=72582&highlight=python) helpful.

My opinion is that I have not sealed my hinges and I don't see any issue with it. I guess it matters if you screw up and have a large gap but with the new ARFs, they do it for you so its hard to get it wrong...

[Ronald Longtin]

I don't understand you guys. After spending so much time and $$ on these beautiful babies, why pass on such an improvement.

It's easy to do and is invisible, so it doesn't change the looks of your graphics.

No matter how fine your hinge line, sealing it helps.

It reduces the load on your servos due to the more efficient action.

If done properly, it's an added security and it will hold if your hinge fails.

All together a really good investment

[Sunfly]

Also I have read that covering the gap may prevent control surface flutter.
For Eric I am re-evaluating my knowledge of physics. :D

I really think covering the gaps would prevent air bleeding toward the control surface that is on the a low air pressure side.
This air may be flowing with turbulence near the control surface increasing the risk of partial stall and / or flutter.

So I think Ronald touch a point for a very few dollars more I would definitely take the time to do it.

Very nices planes guys

Cheers,

[AlixB]

Can't wait to see you fly it.

Will fly awesome at such a low loading.

[Xavier]

I agree with Ronald. It worth the few minutes to it.

It will provide better control and often with less deflection of the surface.

The first time I tried it was on my trainer in 97 and it almost went straight up on take off when I pulled the elevator the same way as before because I wasn't expecting a big difference.

On larger airplane, it could improve loop tracking. When you pull the elevator for a loop or any partial loop, there is load on the wing. If one aileron has a different gap than the other, the plane will roll a little bit. Obviously if the plane roll during the loop, it will not do a very nice loop.

I have sealed the gaps on all my airplane (small or large, fast or slow, kit or ARF) for years usuall transparent covering.

Sometime I use Acetone to clean the surfaces that don't stick.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Thanks for the great input guys! The RC canada thread has some good pointers Greg! I think I will cover the hinge gaps ... I'm hoping it will improve things like loop tracking and other precision control elements like stopping snap rolls at the correct point.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Does any one have a Hitec servo programmer that I could borrow for a while?

[comparf]

Hey Dwight hope you are well. Are you going to use aluminum servo arms? I wasn't going to seal my gaps either but I think I will now. I cant wait to see both of our 100cc QQ@ Pitts Pythons in the sky at the same time. Take care

Paul

[xed]

Does any one have a Hitec servo programmer that I could borrow for a while?Dwight, Michael Vernier has my programmer, you can borrow it from him if he is done with it.

[Michael V]

Hey Dwight!
I have finished with it I believe. After the first few flights I may want to reprogram but I am becoming an old pro with it so if I did require it again I would only need it for a day.
PM me.
Michael

[Dwight Macdonald]

That's great! Thanks Greg and Michael. I will likely call you tomorrow evening Michael.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Paul, I'm using the supplied plastic arms for now and will change to aluminum later if I feel the need ... is there some big advantage to aluminum? I would think the plastic ones would prevent damage to the servo in the event of a mishap ... they also seem stong enough to do the job ...

[isabel]

Hi Dwight, it's nice to follow your build thread and read everyone's pieces of advice.

For the servo arms, if I can slip in a word, up to now we have been using the hitec plastic arms that come with the 5955s for our 35% planes. However we noticed that on the ailerons (2 servos per aileron), the servo arms near the wing tips are wearing down regularly. The teeth inside the arm wear down until the arm becomes loose, every couple of months. We replaced them a few times with spares but last week we ordered some aluminium arms from TBM hoping this would solve the recurring problem.

Also I read on the TBM website that plastic arms shouldn't be used on 35% and larger aircraft, because the rods exert a twisting force on the arm and cause it to flex. I am not sure if it's a marketing tactic or reality, up to you to judge. All I can say is we did observe wearing down of the teeth and that's why we are changing them now. It quickly adds up so we only ordered them for the wings, there seems to be no problem on any other surfaces after 1000+ flights.

Isabel

[xed]

The SWB aluminum arms are great and if installed properly, there will be no wear and tear. They have a bolt that tightens around the head of the servo with the torque applied to the threaded cylinder to keep it locked in place. They are also very tight going on so you need to be careful.

There is a chance that the servo will strip in a crash with aluminum arms but you have a good chance with plastic arms will as well, depending upon the type of impact.

There is no chance of the SWB arms falling off inflight, which means less chance of a crash... :D

[beto9]

Special servos, special servo arms, power management system, special batteries, optical engine cutoff, double receivers, two servos per surface, GHz systems for safety, silicone cable servo extensions, signed graphics, Zurich glasses, high octane gas....
I love this hobby! Money BUYS happiness!

[bob forest]

Albert, you forgot Pampers.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Thanks for the great input on the servo arms folks!

On a different note, I think I will just put in a choke servo instead of an optical cutoff. If I were to use an optical cutoff, I would likely use the the Smartfly one (0.6oz) instead of the Electrodynamics one (~2oz) ... similar price. My choke servo will be about 1.7 oz.

[xed]

... :nopix: ...

[Dwight Macdonald]

All the major hardware in the fuse are rough installed: 1) servos for throttle, choke, elevator and rudder; 2) carbon fiber pipes; 3) landing gear ... not exactly in that order.

[Michael V]

Great looking plane, Dwight.
I only see 1 Battery(A123) inside, is there another?
And for that size of a plane, only 1 rudder servo is needed?

[Dwight Macdonald]

Thanks Michael! There are two A-123's there, on top of one another just for the setup, ... not clear from the picture. The rudder servo requirements are for 400 oz-in ... the servo I'm using is a HS5995 which gives 416 oz-in at 7.4 v ... A-123's give 6.6 v ... if I extrapolate I should get 369 oz-in ... not far from 400 oz-in ... I will try it and if knife-edge loops sag to much I will replace it with either two HS5955 or one JR8711.

[Ronald Longtin]

Not having a choke servo, I found this Optical cut off. Has anybody had any experience or feedback. Their warranty is impressive.

http://www.thunderboltrc.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=94&products_id=373

[bob forest]

Ron, I have been using the optical cut off for the last two seasons. On my Yak, my Edge and now will have it on my CAP. Never missed a beat, very reliable. Highly recommend it.

[beto9]

Ronald, they seem to have great products, good prices and are a Canadian supplier...

I think we should all pool our resources and start entering our suppliers in a forum, indicating their specialty...
I have found here, from other members, great places for the odd items you may need once in a while...

Xed, perhaps an special way of entering them instead of individual postings?

[Dwight Macdonald]

Now that's the price and weight I like to see! ... even lighter than the Smartfly ... hopefuly reliable ... wouldn't want it to cut the engine at the wrong time ... like in a low hover!

[bob forest]

Ron, I mentioned that I was using the Optical cut off which I thought sounded like the one I was using. But now I found the sheet of the one I am using and it is the Electro Dynamics. Inc EDR-107 Fiber optic Kill switch system.
Web site is . www.electrodynam.com
Like I said, been using it for the last two or three years, and have never had a problem.
Right now they have it on sale, for 54 dollars, comes with the on off switch, led indicator light, and also turns off from your trans, and when you turn off the receiver. The whole thing weighs less than 2 oz.Have a look at their web site, they got some other nice stuff, that might be of interest ot you.

[xed]

Xed, perhaps an special way of entering them instead of individual postings?

I've installed a Link Manager this evening, there is no way to get to it from the Navigation bar yet but I will add it later...

For now, you can see it here:

http://www.wimac.ca/forum/local_links.php

[Ronald Longtin]

Just received the Thunderbolt kill switch.

From what I see, it looks like top quality materials and construction. It also works fine as promised.

The Optical connection is somewhere on the circuit board and not an external fiber optic connection as on the Smart-Fly. Thus the lower weight and lower price.

Now the question becomes. On a 2.4 system, should one program fail-safe for low idle or for cut-off in the event of loss of signal from the transmitter?

In the event of battery failure to the receiver, the ignition is cut off.

[Dwight Macdonald]

I think setting the fail-safe should be set to idle in the event of loss of signal ... in case it is just a glitch ... so you don't have a dead stick on a glitch ... can a glitch happen with a 2.4 though??

[beto9]

Glitches are glitches no matter what frequency... I guess you heard Somenzini crashing with a 2.4 GHz....
"If something wrong can happen it will at the worst possible moment"

[Ronald Longtin]

Quique crashed because his batteries dropped below 3.5v and he was velly low..

My thinking is the same as Dwight, low idle on glitch.

For 2.4 systems they are called holds when there is a temporary loss of signal. If it lasts for more than a few moments (seconds ?), I think it's called a crash.

[AlixB]

Is also used.

Had two of them on Rexes (DX6 radio) until I put 470uf capacitor across the 5V powerlines.
Never had any prob since then.

A lot of glitches are due to poor power management onboard the A/C.

Like any electronic device check power first. 2.4 Ghz, 72 Mhz or anything elese
Noise on power lines = reduced selectivity and sensitivity on the receivers

[comparf]

It's looking great Dwight
Cant wait to see it fly. I think you will be ok with the one servo on the rudder it is a very light airframe. I have finished mine today. Maiden flight next weekend.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Thanks Paul! Does anyone know where I can get/buy large (portable) aircraft hold-back posts ... they need to be at least 4 feet long and stiff enough to hold back 50 lbs of thrust without flexing ... otherwise I will make them ...

[beto9]

Perhaps when we buy the iron angled posts for the fence work we can buy a few extra to sink deep in the gasser area and cover with the noodles...

50 lbs. of thrust!? Do you want to rent it to level the road?

[Dwight Macdonald]

Here are a few more pics up to the current state. Note the batteries need to be at the tail for it to balance. I still need to prepare the 14G wires to connect the batteries to the power box ... the wires will weigh 2 oz! I also need to re and re all the screws to add loctite and also connect the headers to the pipes.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Any one know where I can get some real silver solder and flux for it? I mean the kind that requires dull red heat to melt with a torch and not the tin based stuff used for jewelry etc that can be melted with a soldering iron. I need it to modify the smoke injectors ... since they will get very hot and I don't want it to melt. The injectors are brass.

[bob forest]

Dwight I have a roll, the solder is size 10 and grade 50/60 by a compeny called Federated Wire Solder. The roll weighs 5 lbs. It is very old, was my dads. I do not know if this is the stuff. the other one I have is Resin core solder. very small diameter .
bob

[comparf]

Hi DwightI had to put my batteries in the tail as well to balance the beast
9 oz. total. A bit surprising. how much do you batteries weigh each or total?

[Dwight Macdonald]

My batteries are 5.6oz each (x2) = 11.2oz total

[Dwight Macdonald]

Bob perhaps I will try some of your silver solder. It's not urgent so just bring it next time we are to be at the club at the same time.

[Ronald Longtin]

What you need usually comes in sticks with flux wrapping, like a very thin pogo.

A welding shop can probably help you out and do it for a minor sum.

[beto9]

Wow... when is going to be the "inaugural"?

[comparf]

Your batteries are heavier than mine but the balance makes sense. I put my ignition module behind the firewall by 2 inches and I moved the engine back 1/4". I put the 2 receiver batteries and the ignition battery in the tail each pack wieghs 3.3 oz. I used 18 guage wire for the receiver battery packs. Where are you and how are you planning to mount the smoke tank , pump and battery with out affecting the balance too much? This is my dilemma!!!!!!!!

[Dwight Macdonald]

I expect it will be ready to fly in a week or two ... I work kind of slow ...

I think I will put the smoke tank behind the main tank ... it will be behind the CG and will make it a bit more tail heavy when full ... the pump and battery will be behind (or on top). I have my receiver and powerboard under the rudder servo. I will not install the smoke system untill I have it flying well ...

[Dwight Macdonald]

Paul are you not concerned with the ignition battery in the tail? The long wires going from the ignition module to the back pass by all your radio gear ... I know radios are good these days but do you want to take the risk?

[xed]

I think he will be fine with the ignition of the DA. I've read of people (WildHare RC guy) running his ignition box off of the same pack that powers their receiver (A123s).

Have to wonder why you guys are so nose heavy with this Python, what did the manual show in regards to installation of the electronics? Another reason to use a DA-85 in this plane.

[Dwight Macdonald]

The manual shows the batteries either in the middle of the fuse or in the turtledeck and say to use a light spinner. Many people in the build thread for the plane indicate the nose heavy problem ... one guy shows a lot of lead on the tail. I don't even have a spinner on mine and the engine setup is identical to the manual using the wood standoffs which are lighter than aluminum ones.

[comparf]

Dwight I will fully range check at low and full throttle before I fly, also my ignition wires are as far from the radio wires as possible. the plane would fly on a DA 85 but it would not be the awsome plane it can be with the DA 100 and a wing loading of 28 OZ per square foot

[xed]

QQ flying his Python with DA-85... Pretty awesome to me. :P

http://www.flyinggiants.com/forums/fg57/24778-qq-python-da-85-video-first-peek.html

[bob forest]

That is one of the best videos I have ever seen. Close, precise, his slow point roll does not end. his rolling cirle, even at all times with the ground. Just an amazing flyer.

[beto9]

Disgusting... I don't know how he wins all those contests...

He is in a category by himself...

[Dwight Macdonald]

Just about complete ... perhaps she will see the field tomorrow ... :)

[Dwight Macdonald]

I groud tested it tonight ... the engine worked great! It turned the 28x10 Mejzlik 6400-6500 rpm with the ES composite pipes. Last fall it turned the same prop 6200 on a test stand with stock mufflers. The 200-300 rpm increase is about what I expected with the length of headers I'm using. My headers are more likely the correct length for a 27x10 prop ... I will try that one later after a few flights. The sound was quite good and quiet ... at least to me ... we will see how it sounds in the air ... and what others think ...

Slow taxiing was a bit challenging in the moderate crosswind ... the springs that connect the tail wheel to the rudder are quite soft and it acts like a castor and weathervanes into the wind easily ... I may modify them after a few flights.

[xed]

Sounds great Dwight...

The weather is looking quite promising for a first flight this weekend, are you going to be coming out?

If so, I will bring my camera...

[Dwight Macdonald]

The wind forcast was a bit stronger for the weekend and light tonight ... She made her first flight tonight ... perfect ... as advertised! I just made one flight with some basic manouvers ... hope to do more on the weekend.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Just a couple of pics at WIMAC ...:)

[bob forest]

WOW, that is one nice big plane. Congrats.

[Sunfly]

This was an amazing first flight. It left the runway very straight with no surprise at all.
Dwight tried a lot of maneuver for a first flight:
Rolls, hammer head etc. It looks he was seriously prepared.
The landing was also a beauty.

Congratulations Dwight. Yes this is a big plane and many would believe
a WINNER.

:worship:

[Dwight Macdonald]

Thanks a lot guys! Hopefully it will do well with a little more wind tomorrow ...

[Safety First]

Superb airplane Dwight.Hope to see it flying on Saturday.

[Dwight Macdonald]

She's got 10 flights now ... flys great ... except some issues with the receiver (I think). I started with a JR ppm and it was fine in the air ... perhaps just a few minor glitches ... but a lot of glitches at greater than half throttle on the ground ... then I switched to a JR PCM receiver (from Bob Forest) and it is great on the ground but gives a lot of aeleron (and throttle?) glitches in the air ... next I will try switching the transmitter and receiver to my tried and true Futaba PCM system ...

[beto9]

Congrats from France

[Dwight Macdonald]

Hey thanks Albert! I was wondering where we lost you!

My Futaba PCM system worked great today! Not a single glitch on the ground or in the air! Just a couple of maintenence items to deal with ... the two rear bottom support cables (functional, for stiffening the stab) were cut by the brass anchors connecting them to the tail wheel mount ... due to vibration. None of the other cables seem to be wearing the same way. I think a loop of stainless steel solid wire connecting the support and the cable should solve the problem. The landing gear is also too soft aluminum ... it bends easily even with a gentle landing on the grass runway. If I land on the canvas then move to the grass to slow the plane the gear is OK. I also needed to modify the wood canopy posts by epoxing short pieces of aluminum tubing to them because they were wearing out due to the vibrations. The holes that hold the pegs to the fuse also needed to be reinforced by adding an extra layer of 1/8 ply and lining the hole with plastic tube (outer sheath of a large diameter gold-n-rod) This system is holding well with no obvious wear yet.

12 flights now ... no screws coming loose yet!

[bob forest]

Dwight, I have a set of B&B landing gear reinforcement kit. I use them on all my planes. I highly recommend them. I know Ray used a set on his Big Extra, and said they really worked.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Sounds good Bob, I think I will give it a try.

[Dwight Macdonald]

The B&B landing gear reinforcement kit using 3/16 piano wire (extra 4oz) worked quite well but the gear still bent a bit when landing in heavy grass or with a heavy landing ... perhaps 7/32 wire would be good. I received a stronger gear (but heavier) from QQ (for free) and it worked well tonight ... but my landings were good and on the smooth runway. The new gear is ~1oz more than the B&B reinforced gear.

[beto9]

Dwight, with the engine power you have and seeing that your plane takes off in 3 feet... why worry about a few ounces?

[Sunfly]

Airplanes must be of the female gender.
They are not happy if they fuel too much and they check their weight every minute.
:D

[bob forest]

Then, Dwight, the 7/32 woujld work. Ray has it on his big 35% and he says they work very well. With the lighter landing gear and the 7/32 you might be lighter than the new landing gear.

[comparf]

hey Dwight glad you like the Python. I love mine. I also found the gear way too weak they are sending me another set. the only other issue that I have is the knife edge. If I roll to the left knife edge almost 0 coupling if I roll to the right it goes wheels in very much do you have the same problem? If not do you have any idea why mine dose it? As a side nothe the super flexible gear saved my plane yesterday My Python went dead stick and I couldn't land straight away due to people on the runway ( dab timing only I gave thgem permission to be there) so I did a turn around but the bipes loose speed quickly when dead stick and I wasn't going that fast any way. so throught the top of a huge bush into a farmers feild the landing gear looks like a pretzel but the plane is fine only very minor damage. it took me only one hour to fix it completely. the cause of the dead stick was the fuel stopper came out of the tank so no fuel other than inside the fuse not to much I was going to land in onther minute anyway

[Dwight Macdonald]

Sorry about the mishap Paul ... I'm glad there wasn't much damage. I saw the pics. I have not noticed much coupling in knife edge (no wheel pants yet) but haven't carefully compared right and left.

[Dwight Macdonald]

Paul, I noticed that it pulls toward the wheels more on a knife edge with the right wing down than the left wing, but I think the CG may effect it (see the build thread for another pilots observations on this). I need to experiment more with it.

[Dwight Macdonald]

I was at the Smiths Falls Remote Control Aeromodellers club which is located at the Smiths Falls airport last week. They have a system where their model runway is an unused taxiway well away from the main runway ... but they still need to listen on a portable radio to avoid flying when full-scale aircraft are operating ... they will use the main runway for their fun-fly at the end of the month. Here are a few pics.:)

[Kevin Rochon]

Very nice Dwight,

I see there was a AT6, maybe I should get to it and finish mine?

Kevin

[Dwight Macdonald]

Michael, here are some shots of the smoke system ... the plane is undergoing some repairs and maintenance ... I used a 1/16 inch dia brass tube wrapped around the header 3 times as a preheater and have about 1/2 inch protruding into the header through a standard Dubro smoke fitting (soldered together with silver solder). There is a filter between the smoke tank and the pump. The pump exit line goes to a Y near the firewall. There is a check valve installed in each header line. The header coils are connected with black Dubro neoprene tubing and the check valves join the neoprene lines to the tygon lines from the Y.

[Dwight Macdonald]

My smoke pump is from Harris Model Products ... it just plugs into my power box and doesn't need a separate battery. I have the smoke system on a channel that is controlled by a switch and also mixing from the throttle and a dial. I set the dial so the pump is off at below about 1/8 throttle and runs faster at higher throttle.

[Mick]

So where do I connect the smoke system to my electric motor?

Or do I just run the motor so hot it makes its own smoke?

[Dwight Macdonald]

I wonder if someone has invented a smoke system for electrics yet ... perhaps like whatever the parachutists use ...

[drgilo1973]

dwight i got yesterday from serge modeliste the sky writer as smoke pump i install it on the balsa nova i still need to know where do i have to drill my muffler to put the brown ( Or black) tube in it , in other mean i drill my muffler close to engine or far ??

[beto9]

dwight i got yesterday from serge modeliste the sky writer as smoke pump i install it on the balsa nova i still need to know where do i have to drill my muffler to put the brown ( Or black) tube in it , in other mean i drill my muffler close to engine or far ??

http://www.greathobbies.com/technical/tech_smoke_1.php

[Dwight Macdonald]

Usually you install the smoke fluid inlet about 2 cm from the engine exaust port. You want the fluid to enter at the hottest place but not get sprayed into the engine between the exaust pulses ... especially at lower throttle settings.